Sourdough Bagels: Boiled, Baked, and Better Than the Bakery

I grew up eating bagels from a bag at the grocery store. They were fine. Soft, uniform, and entirely forgettable. Then someone gave me a proper New York bagel and I realized that what I had been eating were round bread rolls with holes in them. A real bagel is dense, chewy, with a slightly malty exterior that cracks when you bite through it. That chew comes from two things: a low-hydration dough and boiling before baking. Sourdough adds a third dimension of flavor that makes these bagels absolutely exceptional.

This recipe is not difficult, but it does require planning because sourdough bagels benefit enormously from an overnight cold retard. I mix the dough in the evening, shape and refrigerate before bed, then boil and bake in the morning. Sunday morning sourdough bagels have become a ritual in my house, and once you try them, you will understand why.

The Recipe

Mixing and Kneading

Bagel dough is stiff. Noticeably stiffer than any bread dough you have worked with. At 50% hydration, it will feel dry and difficult to mix at first. This is intentional. The low hydration creates the dense, chewy texture that defines a proper bagel.

Combine all dough ingredients in a large bowl and mix until a shaggy mass forms. Turn it onto a clean surface and knead for ten to twelve minutes. This is one of the few sourdough applications where I genuinely recommend hand kneading because you need to feel when the dough transforms from rough and crumbly to smooth and elastic. If you have a stand mixer, use the dough hook on low speed for eight minutes, but check the dough frequently because the stiff dough can strain smaller mixers.

The finished dough should be smooth, firm, and slightly tacky but not sticky. It should pass the windowpane test, showing a translucent membrane when stretched. Good gluten development is critical for bagels because the boiling step puts stress on the dough, and weak gluten will produce bagels that fall apart in the water.

Shaping

Divide the dough into eight equal pieces (about 110g each). Shape each piece into a tight ball by pulling the surface taut against the work surface, then let them rest under a towel for five minutes.

There are two shaping methods. The poke method is easier: flatten a ball slightly, poke your thumb through the center, then stretch the hole to about two inches in diameter by spinning the dough around your fingers. The hole should be larger than you think necessary because it shrinks during proofing and boiling.

The rope method produces a more traditional shape: roll each ball into a rope about nine inches long, wrap it around your knuckles to form a ring, and roll the overlapping ends together on the counter to seal. This takes practice but creates a more uniform shape.

Cold Retard

Place the shaped bagels on a parchment-lined baking sheet, leaving space between them. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for eight to fourteen hours. The overnight retard develops complex flavors and also makes morning logistics simple: wake up, preheat oven, boil, bake, eat.

To test if the bagels are properly proofed, drop one into a bowl of water. If it floats within ten seconds, they are ready. If it sinks, let the bagels sit at room temperature for fifteen to thirty minutes and test again.

Boiling

Bring a large pot of water to a vigorous boil. Add two tablespoons of honey or barley malt syrup and one tablespoon of baking soda. The malt adds subtle sweetness and contributes to the glossy, golden crust. The baking soda raises the pH, which promotes browning.

Working two or three at a time, lower the bagels into the boiling water. Boil for one minute per side, flipping once with a slotted spoon. Longer boiling (up to two minutes per side) creates a thicker, chewier crust. Shorter boiling produces a thinner, crispier crust. I prefer sixty seconds per side as a good middle ground.

Topping and Baking

As each bagel comes out of the water, place it on a parchment-lined baking sheet and immediately press the top into your chosen toppings (or sprinkle them on). The wet surface acts as glue. Classic options include everything seasoning, sesame seeds, poppy seeds, dried onion flakes, or coarse salt.

Bake at 450°F (230°C) for 18-22 minutes, rotating the sheet halfway through. The bagels are done when they are deeply golden brown and sound hollow when tapped on the bottom. Let them cool on a wire rack for at least ten minutes before slicing. I know waiting is difficult when the smell fills your kitchen, but cutting a hot bagel compresses the crumb and ruins the texture.

These bagels keep well in a bread bag for two days at room temperature. After that, slice and freeze them. A frozen sourdough bagel, toasted straight from the freezer, is still better than anything you can buy at a grocery store. Once you have made your own, those soft, spongy store-bought versions will never satisfy you again.